You’re standing in your laundry room, staring at your washing machine, and thinking: “How hard can this be? It’s just a big box with a drum inside.”

Then you try to pull it away from the wall and realize it weighs about 200 pounds, has multiple hoses you’ve never touched, and apparently decided to become one with your floor over the past five years.

Moving a washing machine is one of those tasks that sounds simple in theory but quickly becomes complicated in practice. The good news? With the right preparation and technique, it’s absolutely doable as a DIY project. I’ve moved more washing machines than I can count, and I’ve learned every trick (and made every mistake) along the way.

This guide will walk you through the entire process, from disconnecting hoses to loading it onto a truck, so you can move your washer without flooding your home, throwing out your back, or questioning all your life decisions.

Why Moving a Washing Machine Is Trickier Than You Think

Washing machines present three unique challenges:

Weight: Front-load washers can weigh 200-250 pounds. Top-loaders are slightly lighter at 150-200 pounds, but still substantial.

Water: Even after disconnecting, residual water remains in hoses and the drum. This can leak during transport and make the machine even heavier.

Delicate mechanics: That drum inside? It’s suspended and can get damaged if the machine tips, drops, or experiences too much jostling during the move.

But don’t let this discourage you. Thousands of people successfully move their own washing machines every day. You just need to know what you’re doing.

What You'll Need

Before you start, gather these supplies. Trust me, you don’t want to be halfway through disconnecting your washer when you realize you need a wrench you don’t have.

Tools:

  • Adjustable wrench or pliers
  • Bucket (at least 2-gallon capacity)
  • Towels (old ones you don’t mind getting wet)
  • Appliance dolly (this is non-negotiable for safety)
  • Furniture straps or moving straps
  • Screwdriver (for some models)

Supplies:

  • Packing tape
  • Plastic wrap or moving blankets
  • Zip ties or twist ties
  • Shipping bolts (if you still have them from original delivery)
  • Moving blankets or furniture pads

People: You’ll need at least one other person, preferably two. I don’t care how strong you are—moving a washing machine solo is dangerous and a great way to injure yourself or damage the machine.

Step 1: Prepare the Washing Machine (24 Hours Before)

Run an empty wash cycle with just hot water and a cup of white vinegar. This cleans out detergent residue and helps eliminate some of the water that would otherwise leak during the move.

Let it air out by leaving the door open after this cycle. You want as much water as possible to evaporate.

Gather your original installation materials if you still have them. Those shipping bolts that came with the washer? They’re designed to secure the drum during transport. If you don’t have them, check if you can order replacements for your specific model—it’s worth it.

Step 2: Disconnect the Water Supply

This is where most DIYers get nervous, but it’s actually straightforward.

Turn off the water valves behind the washing machine. There should be two: one for hot water (usually marked red) and one for cold (usually marked blue). Turn them clockwise until they stop.

Unplug the washing machine from the electrical outlet. Always disconnect power before messing with water connections.

Place your bucket underneath the hose connections. Even with the water off, residual water in the hoses will drain out.

Disconnect the inlet hoses:

  1. Using your adjustable wrench, turn the hose connections counterclockwise
  2. Hot water hose first, then cold water hose
  3. Let water drain into your bucket
  4. Have towels ready—there’s always more water than you expect

Tip from experience: The hoses might be tight if they haven’t been removed in years. Don’t force them. Apply steady pressure and they’ll eventually loosen. If they’re really stuck, a little WD-40 around the connection can help.

Step 3: Disconnect the Drain Hose

The drain hose is usually a larger corrugated hose that runs into a drain pipe or utility sink.

Remove the drain hose from wherever it’s secured (usually a standpipe, laundry sink, or floor drain).

Expect water to pour out. Have your bucket and towels ready. The drain hose holds more water than you think.

Secure the hose to the back of the washing machine using zip ties or tape. You don’t want it dragging on the ground or getting caught under the washer during the move.

Do the same with the inlet hoses—coil them up and secure them to the back of the machine.

Step 4: Install Transit Bolts (Critical Step)

This is the step many people skip, and then they wonder why their washing machine sounds like a cement mixer after the move.

What are transit bolts? These are bolts that secure the drum inside the washing machine so it doesn’t bounce around and damage the suspension during transport.

If you have the original transit bolts:

  1. Locate the transit bolt holes on the back of the washer (usually 4 of them)
  2. Insert the bolts and tighten them according to your manual
  3. This locks the drum in place

If you don’t have transit bolts:

  • Check if your manufacturer sells them (search for your model number + “transit bolts”)
  • As an alternative, stuff the drum with blankets, towels, or bubble wrap to minimize movement
  • This isn’t ideal, but it’s better than nothing

Why this matters: I’ve seen washing machines that were fine before a move and completely broken after because the drum bounced around and damaged the suspension springs. Those repairs cost $200-400. Transit bolts cost $15-30.

Step 5: Prepare the Washing Machine for Transport

Clean the exterior with a damp cloth. You’ll thank yourself later when you’re not moving a grimy appliance into your new home.

Tape the door or lid shut with packing tape. Front-load washers especially—you don’t want that door swinging open during transport.

Wrap the washing machine:

  • Use moving blankets or furniture pads to protect the exterior
  • Wrap plastic wrap around the blankets to keep them in place
  • Secure with packing tape
  • Pay extra attention to corners and edges

Check for loose parts:

  • Detergent dispensers sometimes come out—remove them and pack separately
  • Any accessories like pedestals need to be removed

Step 6: Moving the Washing Machine

This is where having help becomes absolutely critical.

Pull the washer away from the wall carefully. You might need to rock it gently side to side to break it free if it’s been there a while.

Tilt the washing machine back slightly and slide your appliance dolly underneath. The dolly should go under the front of the machine, with the washer leaning back against the upright portion of the dolly.

Secure the washer to the dolly using the dolly’s straps. Make this tight—you don’t want any shifting.

Navigate carefully:

  • Go slowly through doorways
  • Watch for tight corners
  • Stairs are the biggest challenge—one person guides while another controls the dolly
  • On stairs, go backwards if going down (so the washer leans back against you)

Loading onto the truck:

  • Keep the washer upright—never lay it on its side or back
  • Secure it against the truck wall with straps
  • Don’t stack anything on top of it
  • If possible, position it so it won’t slide during transport

Why upright matters: Laying a washing machine on its side can cause oil from the motor to leak into other components. It can also put stress on the drum suspension. Always keep it upright.

Step 7: Unloading and Reconnecting

You’ve made it to your new place. You’re almost done.

Unload carefully using the same techniques you used for loading. Take your time—you’ve come this far without damage, don’t rush now.

Position the washing machine in its new location, leaving a few inches from the wall for hose connections.

Remove transit bolts if you installed them. This is critical—if you forget this step, your washer will sound terrible and won’t work properly. (I put a sticky note on the control panel that says “REMOVE TRANSIT BOLTS” for this exact reason.)

Reconnect the inlet hoses:

  1. Attach hot water hose to hot valve (red)
  2. Attach cold water hose to cold valve (blue)
  3. Hand-tighten first, then use wrench to snug them up (don’t over-tighten)
  4. Make sure rubber washers are inside each hose connection

Reconnect the drain hose to the standpipe or drain.

Level the washing machine:

  • Use a level to check front-to-back and side-to-side
  • Adjust the leveling feet by turning them (they screw in and out)
  • This is important—an unlevel washer will vibrate excessively and walk across your floor

Turn on the water valves and check for leaks at all connections.

Plug in the washing machine.

Run a test cycle with just water (no clothes) to check for:

  • Leaks at connections
  • Proper drainage
  • Normal operation sounds
  • Excessive vibration

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake #1: Not draining the water completely Even with hoses disconnected, water remains in the pump and internal hoses. When you tilt the washer, this water will leak. Keep towels handy throughout the entire move.

Mistake #2: Moving it on carpet without protection The weight can tear carpet or leave permanent track marks. Use plywood sheets or masonite as a pathway if you’re moving over carpet.

Mistake #3: Forgetting to measure doorways Measure your washing machine’s width and the doorway width before moving day. Sometimes doors need to come off hinges, or you need to remove the washer’s top panel to gain a few inches.

Mistake #4: Skipping the appliance dolly Using a furniture dolly or trying to carry it leads to injuries and damage. Appliance dollies are designed specifically for this. Rent one if you don’t own one—it costs about $15-20 for a day.

Mistake #5: Reconnecting hoses too tightly Over-tightening can crack the plastic connections. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is sufficient.

Front-Load vs. Top-Load: Key Differences

Front-load washers:

  • Heavier (often 200+ pounds)
  • Must stay upright during transport
  • Door must be taped shut
  • More likely to have transit bolt holes
  • Generally more expensive to replace if damaged

Top-load washers:

  • Lighter (150-200 pounds)
  • Lid should be secured
  • Can usually be tilted more during maneuvering
  • May not have transit bolts—stuffing with blankets is more common
  • Simpler internal mechanisms

Both types require the same basic moving process, but front-loaders need extra care due to their weight and more complex suspension systems.

When to Call Professionals Instead

Look, I’m all for DIY. But there are situations where calling in professional movers is the smarter choice.

Consider professional help if:

  • You have a washer/dryer stacked unit (these are complex and heavy)
  • You’re moving up or down multiple flights of stairs
  • You have physical limitations or back problems
  • Your washing machine is still under warranty (some warranties are voided if not moved by professionals)
  • You don’t have an appliance dolly and helpers
  • The route from your laundry room involves tight turns, narrow hallways, or other obstacles

A damaged washing machine costs $400-1,200 to replace (or more for high-end models). A professional moving service costs $100-300 typically. Sometimes the peace of mind and safety are worth it.

If you’re moving an entire household and the washing machine is just one piece of many, having professional movers handle everything can actually save you time and stress. They have the equipment, experience, and insurance to handle appliances along with all your other belongings.

Moving a Dryer? Here's the Quick Version

Since you’re probably moving your dryer too, here’s the condensed version:

Gas dryer:

  • Turn off the gas supply valve
  • Disconnect the gas line (you might need a professional for this)
  • Cap the gas line
  • Disconnect the vent hose

Electric dryer:

  • Unplug it
  • Disconnect the vent hose
  • Much simpler than gas

Both types:

  • Clean the lint trap and vent
  • Secure the door with tape
  • Can be moved on an appliance dolly like a washer
  • Generally lighter than washing machines (100-150 pounds)

Final Thoughts: You Can Do This

Moving a washing machine is physical work, and it requires careful attention to detail, but it’s not rocket science. Thousands of people do it successfully every weekend during moving season.

The keys to success:

  • Preparation: Gather all supplies before you start
  • Help: Don’t try to solo this
  • Equipment: Use an appliance dolly, period
  • Patience: Rush = mistakes = damage or injury
  • Caution: If something feels unsafe, stop and reassess

Take your time, follow the steps, and you’ll have your washing machine safely in your new home and running smoothly.

And if you get halfway through and think “I really don’t want to deal with this,” that’s completely valid. That’s exactly why professional moving services exist. No judgment—sometimes the best DIY decision is knowing when to call in the pros.